Slow or Sluggish Oxygen Sensors

Curing Shock, Strut and Suspension Noise

Slow or Sluggish Oxygen Sensors

Curing Shock, Strut and Suspension Noise

Today's powertrain & engine management systems contain a dizzying array of sensors that provide the car's Engine Control Unit with vital data. After attending this course, you'll have an understanding of the various sensor technology types. You'll also learn how properly troubleshoot the root cause of sensor failures.

This technical topic is geared for the average B and or B+ technician and/or a challenging refresher for the A technician. We'll use real-world data and case studies to create best practices.

Speakers Philip Austin Manager of Technical Training USA/Canada NGK Spark Plugs With 25 years of Automotive Industry experience, starting off as an ASE certified OE Dealership Technician to OE Dealership Assistant Service Manager. Thereafter Philip Austin has held various leadership roles along with training & development roles within the industry. A lifelong pursuit of learning and teaching has taken him to every corner of the automotive industry. As a previous OE Tech, successful Shop co-owner, Technical Trade School Instructor, Technical Content Developer, Business Consultant, and Guest Instructor on the Velocity Channel Automotive Cable Series- Tech Garage; he is dedicated to supporting the growth of all automotive professionals via training & development. Philip is currently the Manager of Technical Training at NGK Spark Plugs. Andrew Markel Technical Director of Content Babcox Media

The September issue includes technical and management content and is free to download and read.

When performing a calibration, you are adjusting the connection between the sensor, vehicle and surroundings.

Brake & Front End serves repair shops conducting a high volume of undercar repairs by providing application-specific technical information and solutions to address emerging trends in the undercar repair segment. By subscribing, you’ll receive the ShopOwner digital edition magazine (12 times/year) featuring articles from Brake & Front End and the Brake & Front End eNewsletter (twice weekly). Access to digital editions, contests, news, and more are ready for you today!

Brake & Front End serves repair shops conducting a high volume of undercar repairs by providing application-specific technical information and solutions to address emerging trends in the undercar repair segment. By subscribing, you’ll receive the ShopOwner digital edition magazine (12 times/year) featuring articles from Brake & Front End and the Brake & Front End eNewsletter (twice weekly). Access to digital editions, contests, news, and more are ready for you today!

ByBrake and Front End Staff on Nov 19, 2019

This month we sit down with an honoree from our inaugural class of Women at the Wheel in 2020, Stacey Miller.

Don’t settle for “almost” - it matters where the engine is manufactured or remanufactured. Sponsored by ACDelco.

GM transmissions and transfer cases are unique to each individual vehicle. This video is sponsored by ACDelco.

Don’t settle for “almost” - it matters where the engine is manufactured or remanufactured. Sponsored by ACDelco.

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When replacing a press-type wheel bearing and hub flange, it’s important that all the wheel-end parts work together properly after reassembly.

When replacing a press-type wheel bearing and hub flange, it’s important that all the wheel-end parts work together properly after reassembly. Damaged parts or improper torquing can cause premature hub failure and issues with overall vehicle performance. AdvertisementA hub flange kit contains all the components needed to replace a worn out wheel bearing and flange. It’s best to use a kit that includes the hub flange, cartridge bearing, axle nut, seals and c-clip. Follow proper installation procedure and the steps below to ensure maximum service life for new components.  Note: the steps outlined below relate directly to a 2002 Mazda Protegé, but can generally be followed for other vehicles. Disassembly Once you have identified the proper hub flange kit for the vehicle you are ready to replace the wheel bearing and hub flange. Remove the tire, caliper and caliper bracket. Secure the caliper with a bungee cord to avoid damage to the brake line. Remove the rotor and axle nut and move the front half-shaft out of the way. Remove the lower ball joint and outer tie rod by removing the retaining nut and/or pinch bolt. Also remove the lower retaining bolt for the strut. Now remove the knuckle from the vehicle. Press-in Installation Set the knuckle on a flat surface on the press with the right adaptor and press the flange from the knuckle. Pull the c-clip off the knuckle and return to the press to remove the cartridge bearing. Inspect the old bearing for signs of an out-of-round knuckle like uneven pressmarks. You can also use a bore gauge to check and see if the knuckle is out of round. Inspect and clean the interior of the knuckle to ensure that there are no high spots or deep grooving that can damage the new bearing.AdvertisementSet the new bearing and knuckle on the press with the proper adaptor in place. Once pressed, install the c-clip. Return to the press and arrange the parts so that the adaptor supports the inner race of the bearing on a flat surface and the knuckle is centered atop the hub flange before pressing. Reassembly For reassembly, repeat the disassembly process in reverse order. Follow torque specification for the axle and lug nuts. Pump the brakes and test-drive the vehicle. Courtesy of SKF. Please visit www.vsm.skf.com to learn more. 

A hub flange kit contains all the components needed to replace a worn out wheel bearing and flange. It’s best to use a kit that includes the hub flange, cartridge bearing, axle nut, seals and c-clip. Follow proper installation procedure and the steps below to ensure maximum service life for new components. 

Note: the steps outlined below relate directly to a 2002 Mazda Protegé, but can generally be followed for other vehicles.

Once you have identified the proper hub flange kit for the vehicle you are ready to replace the wheel bearing and hub flange. Remove the tire, caliper and caliper bracket. Secure the caliper with a bungee cord to avoid damage to the brake line. Remove the rotor and axle nut and move the front half-shaft out of the way. Remove the lower ball joint and outer tie rod by removing the retaining nut and/or pinch bolt. Also remove the lower retaining bolt for the strut. Now remove the knuckle from the vehicle.

Set the knuckle on a flat surface on the press with the right adaptor and press the flange from the knuckle. Pull the c-clip off the knuckle and return to the press to remove the cartridge bearing.

Inspect the old bearing for signs of an out-of-round knuckle like uneven pressmarks. You can also use a bore gauge to check and see if the knuckle is out of round. Inspect and clean the interior of the knuckle to ensure that there are no high spots or deep grooving that can damage the new bearing.

Set the new bearing and knuckle on the press with the proper adaptor in place. Once pressed, install the c-clip. Return to the press and arrange the parts so that the adaptor supports the inner race of the bearing on a flat surface and the knuckle is centered atop the hub flange before pressing.

For reassembly, repeat the disassembly process in reverse order. Follow torque specification for the axle and lug nuts. Pump the brakes and test-drive the vehicle.

Courtesy of SKF. Please visit www.vsm.skf.com to learn more. 

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Technical Resources for diagnosing and servicing undercar components