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I was enjoying one of the first ears of local corn last night when a childhood memory came back to me. It's the mid-1960s: I’m sitting with my brothers, Michael and Lee, at the round, avocado-green Formica dinner table in our kitchen and we’re about to launch a summer game. The goal? To see who can leave one perfect row of corn on the cob and demolish all the rest. My father is the judge and he reminds us that the cob needs to be completely clean except for the one remaining, perfectly straight, row. We nibble slowly, carefully, and competitively. We use our teeth to dig into the cob to clean it up as much as possible. Someone slips and accidentally takes off one kernel from the row. Hysteria ensues. And when it’s time for the judging my father, a smart man, talks about the merits of each of our ears of corn as if they were sculptures.

“There’s no clear winner. They all look very clean, very neat. You all did a great job!”

"No fair,” we grumble in unison. “Mine’s the best.”

Corn equals summer. At the height of summer, I, for one, can not get enough of it. I use fresh corn to make breakfast fritters topped with maple syrup and butter. I make savory fritters with herbs and herb butter. I make soups and chowders. I bake muffins and cakes. I top a tomato tart with freshly shucked kernels of corn off the cob. There are salads to be made and relishes and chutneys. Corn knows no bounds.

This summer I created several new recipes. The first: corn, chicken and ginger stir fry. It’s quick, easy, and a thoroughly satisfying weeknight dinner with a pot of white or brown rice. The second dish is a Mexican-inspired soup that’s full of poblano chili peppers, onions, and lots of fresh corn. It’s like a cross between a Mexican sopa de elote and a New England corn chowder. And there’s also a quick recipe for making a sweet corn stock from the leftover cobs. (It makes an excellent base for any vegetable or bean soup.) And finally, a savory muffin made from cornmeal, fresh corn, and a load of fresh summer herbs and chopped scallions.

When shopping, always look for corn from a local farmer, farmer’s market or a trusted grocery store that sells only local corn stocked daily. Corn that sits around, or has been flown across the country is just … wrong. It dries up and turns to starch. There will be no taste of sweetness. Shop for corn that has a bright green husk. The silk, also called tassels, on top of the corn should be yellow, gold or brown; avoid black tassels as they indicate the corn is old. Don’t shuck the corn at the market; it will begin to dry out the minute you shuck it. Shuck at home just before you’re ready to cook the corn or cut the kernels off. And never pull back the husk at the store to peek at the kernels. This ruins the corn for the next person. Feel the corn; it should have some weight and feel firm. And remember, don’t throw out the husks after you’ve eaten corn on the cob or shaved off the kernels. The cobs make delicious sweet stock–recipe below.

In July, the revered cookbook author and Mexican food authority Diana Kennedy passed away. Her cookbooks taught Americans about the regional cuisine of Mexico and enlightened us about the beauty of indigenous ingredients and traditions. In her seminal book, "The Cuisines of Mexico," I found a recipe for sopa de elote (fresh corn soup) that intrigued me. This is my take on a corn soup; it’s like a cross between a New England chowder and a Mexican-inspired corn soup. Onions, oregano, and chopped poblano peppers are sauteed and then potatoes and fresh corn kernels are added. I then add a light corn stock (recipe below) or water, milk, and cream and simmer until the potatoes are tender. Half the soup is pureed giving it a thick, creamy texture. It’s served hot or cold topped with sauteed corn kernels, cilantro, crumbled cotija or feta cheese and lime wedges.

Think of a savory herb-filled cornbread in muffin tins and you’ll understand the appeal of these muffins. Made in one bowl, a simple mixture of cornmeal, flour, eggs, and butter are mixed with fresh corn kernels, chopped scallions, and herbs –like thyme, parsley, chives and basil. The muffins cook up in around 20 minutes and are every bit as good for breakfast as they are served with BBQ, grilled meats or fish, or a simple summer salad.

This is a quick, simple stir fry ideal for a light, summery dinner. Serve with steamed white or brown rice and a cucumber salad. You can easily double the recipe for a larger crowd.

Many cooks have tricks for the best way to remove the kernels from a cob of corn. I like to keep it simple: Place the shucked ear of corn in the middle of a large bowl. Holding the cob with one hand, and working with a sharp knife, I cut down the cob removing the kernels and the milk (the white liquid) that is just beneath the kernels. Then I flip the cob over and get any remaining kernels from the other side. Keep the cobs for making corn stock; recipe below.

You can use this sweet stock for chowders, vegetable soups, or deglazing a skillet.

Place the corn cobs, onion, peppercorns and a generous bit of salt into a large pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover slightly, and simmer for about 45 minutes to an hour. Taste for seasoning adding more salt and pepper as needed. If the stock tastes weak, continue to cook for another 10 to 15 minutes. Strain the stock; it can be frozen for 6 months or kept in a tightly sealed jar and refrigerated for around 4 to 5 days.

This segment aired on July 28, 2022.

Kathy Gunst Twitter Resident Chef, Here & Now Kathy Gunst is a James Beard Award-winning journalist and the author of 15 cookbooks.

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